W a n d e r l u s t: Trip to South Goa

This was my fifth trip to Goa in last 5 years. And this time I went solo with a backpack -just to unwind after a somewhat busy work schedule. While all the earlier trips were -for some reason- to North Goa, this time around I wanted to head south.

I'd booked sleeper class tickets and the to and fro fare from Pune cost me about 500 rupees. Goa express leaves Pune by 4:20 pm and arrives early morning at Margao. Oh, in the context of our railways it is Madgaon. With weather reports warning about very heavy rains in the region, I just hoped the train does not get delayed -as I had only a weekend and a half of Monday to be in Goa. Before leaving office on Friday, I checked the current status of the train online (this train starts from Nizamuddin in Delhi), and it was on time. Could'nt agree more with what Indigo (airlines) mean when they say 'ontime is a wwonderful thing!' :).

There was no strict agenda –sole reasons behind the trip were ..well.. gastronomic, and exploring places on-the-go. Based on a friend’s recommendation, I also wanted to explore the Peach Schnapps available here, and in addition to Fenny, wanted to try out Urak (a local spirit: Unlike feni, which is clear, Urak which is the first flush of feni is a cloudy beverage with sediment floating at the bottom.). A Korean friend had introduced me to the idea of making a drought beer taste richer (& stronger!) by adding local spirit ..very similar to Urak. So a Beer-Urak cocktail was also on the agenda. Didn’t book any accommodation in advance and wanted to explore the cheapest options for stay.

I witnessed (and continue to witness) an ever-increasing breed of fellow countrymen who would flaunt cellphones that can play songs on loudspeaker. "Jeeta tha jiske liye ..jiske liye marta tha..." & "Mujhse mohhobat ka ikraar karta.." were two of the background scores in the train compartment. These days it is not too difficult to spot a ..self-styled PJ (Pho-n Jokey?!) who just can't afford a headphone. Despite couple of PJs, the journey was enjoyable. The pantry didn’t have much to offer (compared to the exhaustive menu options in Konkan-Kanya express that heads Goa from CSTM in Mumbai). Had to choose between veg/egg/chicken biryani. For 70 rupees, chicken biryani was'nt bad.

Reached Margao/Madgaon Railway station at 5:48 am. The collection of paintings on the walls are bound to catch anyone’s attention -- not sure if all those paintings are original work of art by the renown Goan artist Mario Miranda.

The last time I spotted a strictly non-veg restaurant was on a road trip to Ratangarh Fort in Maharashtra - the menu had only 3 thalis: mutton, chicken and eggs. Vegetarians go elsewhere.

Day 1: Saturday

Ok, so at 5:48 am in Madgaon railway station, I didnt have a definite plan about where I should be going. So I walked out of the station and headed to 'Longuinhos' in a market area.

Longuinhos is a restaurant-bar-confectionery and I had come across this fascinating review about it online - and wanted to make sure I don't miss it. But that early everything was closed so I went walking around the Margao city around Longuinhos, admiring the old-world charm and the Portuguese architecture. 'Our Lady of Grace' church was open and few visitors were praying already.

I postponed the idea to gorge at Longuinhos and took an auto-rickshaw to Colva. Didnt bargain -and for 100 rupees I was there. The rikshaw-driver's tip about finding the cheapest place to stay was a bonus. I checked-in at Colva beach resort - the room had three beds, a french window, a rocking chair. The resort had a nice swimming pool with a poolside bar & restaurant. For 500 rupees a day and check-out time after 29 hours - I didnt have to bargain at all. Not recommended when you're looking for a peaceful time in the resort with family - Although there were individual cottages as well, most of the adjacent 500_rupee_rooms were occupied by groups of lungi-clad bachelors in their highest spirits :)

This resort was right next to the beach.. so it was hardly 25 steps to reach the shore.

Unlike most beaches in North Goa, this one was not crowded and I could have taken a dip without caring much about my belongings (camera/cellphone/wallet). However, I was hungry and went walking to look for a filling breakfast. Had some bacon/eggs/juice/bread-butter/pancakes/coffee and was super-charged. I then hired a honda activa for 200 rupees a day and headed to Benaulim about 2kms from Colva. The beach was similar to the one at Colva.

At about noon I entered Pedros restaurant just beside the beach. The menu was extensive ..it was quite uncommon to see preparations with bamboo-shoot in all my earlier visits to Goa. Pork with bamboo shoot was too tempting to order..but I went for some fried mackerel, and pork garlic-chilly fry with a large peg of cashew_fenny_with_7up_and_some_salt_and_ice. For a bill under 250 rupees this was a real treat! The fish was good but I think even I can prepare a better pork-garlic chilly any day.

Went back to Colva and decided to head towards Majorda. It was about 5-6kms from Colva. The beach was pristine ..very few people and the best part was to by-stand how a river quietly meets the sea. After all, some things are meant to be - an inspiration for countless song lyrics.

I have a morbid fear that I can’t drive accurately on unfamiliar roads (even with glasses on) as the darkness sets in ..so I decided to rush back to the base - Colva -.by 6:30pm :) . Explored the market in Colva and there was absolutely nothing that made me buy any stuff. I chanced upon a Bengali restaurant called 'বাবু মশাই ' (Babu Moshai .. which I can mostly interpret). Went ahead and ordered a fish-rice thali and it was worth. Spent under a 100 rupees. This wasnt a luch or a dinner ..was just hungry again! The owner was quite hospitable and asked me in Bengali if I liked the food – to which I uttered 'daroon hoche dada' -trying my best to recall all the little bengali I’ve known.

Later I checked out few roadside restaurants. Had more of fried fish ..goan style with a planters punch. Repeat. Also tried out the Eristoff Vodka for the first time ..there was a buy_one_get_one_free offer. For 40 rupees for a 60ml peg it was worth a try. I tried it and wasn’t impressed. Then I headed to another beach-side restaurant that had live music playing. Overheard 'Whats up' - a cover of 4 non Blondes and these guys were sounding really very impressive.
I ordered some pork_with_corriender_n_chilly and some good old Old Monk rum with coke and ice cubes as I listened to the live band. This was my second chance to witness a live band in Goa (the earlier one being at Stone House restaurant in Candolim – which has a mention in Lonely Planet - if it matters. Personally I dont like following Lonely Planet reviews though!). The earlier experience of live band was great and this one was even better. Some exceptionally talented lot of musicians here! I was spellbound to hear some of their covers – Eagles, Deep Purple, 4-non-blondes, Bon Jovi, some Goan songs as well.

Went off to bed at sometime_past_12, with no strict plans for the next day.

Day 2: Sunday

Even before the alarm for 7:30am could beep, I was awake, fresh and all-excited for exploring more! Had some chicken patties, samosa & chai (repeat) for breakfast and took a local bus for Maria Hall -- inorder to head for Varca. All the knowledge about which bus to take and from where were complementary with the breakfastJ.

From Maria Hall, hired a two-wheeler taxi for 50 rupees to reach Varca. Ah, Varca was something I could have avoided this time -- this place was full of all the top-notch resorts..the likes of Taj & Zuri (remember Kingfisher Calender's resort in Goa?).

Still, headed for the Varca beach -after all ..weren't best things in life for free? :)

There were only 3 guys around the beach. Two with a fishing net and one with a fishing rod -fishing leisurely at the nullah just ahead of the beach.

The two-wheeler taxi driver narrated how lively this place gets around October with all the beach-side shacks and parties, and about himself, his family, parents. Instantly we were friends and he took my cell number to get in touch when I visit 'next time'. He recommended a visit to Palolem beach but that was quite far so I decided to head for Cavelossim. I continued the pillion ride on his bike to Cavelossim.

There were not many budget accommodation options here as well - with the likes of Radisson Blu, Leela, Dona Sylvia. However, I managed to get another 500_rupee_a_day accommodation at a guest house called Hippos. Most signboards in the shops here were surprisingly in Russian, with absolutely no English translation.

I hired another two wheeler - a honda activa to explore Cavelossim. Landed up for brunch at Fishermans' Wharf, a riverside restaurant that boasts of the best seafood in south Goa.

The ambience was perfect. Riverside view --with no stink of monsoon-fed river, and as I entered I could hear Chris de Burgh playing in the background.

View from the table in Fisherman's Wharf

The waiters were well dressed and most of the crowd seemed to be from the close-by raddisons and Leelas. I ordered some fish peri peri, crab masala fry and yet again could'nt resist - pork chilly fry.

Fish PeriPeri at Fisherman's Wharf

Also tried some palm fenny with limca which tasted very good. The food and hospitality were very good and as I said -the ambiance. If you're in south Goa, a visit to Fisherman’s' Wharf is highly recommended. The crab was served with a crab cutter and I learnt I must polish my table manners about using a crab cutter. Luckily there were no guests around my table so I could rely on my muscular strength to break portions of the crab. :)

The pork chilly fry was one of the best Ive had..the only special instructions being: no capsicum -real green chillies!

After a heavy brunch - I drove to the beach, which was quite clean and un-crowded. Couldn’t resist getting into the waters -spent over an hour here before I went to retire in the room.

Found the Berentzen Peach Schnapps at a shop called Watsons. Bought a bottle for 850 rupees and got it nicely packed to carry along.

In the evening, I dined at 'Hungry Shark'. Some fish fingers and Pork Vindaloo with a peg of Archers Peach Schnapps. The food was just okay - nothing worth a mention.

The bartender talked about how he’s killing his time here during the 'off-season' as he’s otherwise employed with Star Cruise - a cruise liner ship and how he’s used to spending good times in Japan/S'pore/Malaysia/Middle-east.

Went off to sleep while it started raining quite heavily.

Day 3: Monday

Got ready by 9 am and after about 5 mins of waiting at the bus-stop got a bus for Margao .. had to board the return train by 3:50 pm. (Goa express again). I was glad I had ample time to spend at Longuinhos now!

At about 10:30 am I was at Longuinhos -had ham sandwiches and tea for breakfast. It was nice to watch this old man with a walking stick sip wine so leisurely, as I was about to leave.

The only 'offer' going on here this time of the year:

The billing machine at the cash counter..

I went walking to the Goa Tourism handicraft museum - just across the road, and then to a roadside market that had all the local produce

Was back at Longuinhos and ordered some fish fry –which was really prepared to perfection in goan spices

Also ordered some fried cashew with Beer and – yes the Urak was available here

If you’re in margao, don’t miss out on the fish cutlets here – at Rs. 10 each I ended up ordering all the remaining ones -9.

Had some more fish and then took away some pork chops and pork vindaloo to have the next day in Pune.

Wrapped up with a caramel custard which was just perfect!

Of all the restaurants I have been to, Longuinhos certainly is on my list of favorite eating joints on the planet!

Reached Madgaon station in an auto-rickshaw, about 30 mins early before departure. The rickshaw driver narrated how the sky-walk project was experimented longtime back in Margao, and how it came to a standstill :(